![]() ![]() You can polish carbon higher than stainless, without that nasty stickiness, and probably should to reduce its rustiness. Much less so on pure carbon with carbon cladding, which - due to the continual chemical reaction between the ingredient and the steel - is sort of 'non-stick'. ![]() This is particularly bad on stainless (You mention Ginsanko.). However, the higher you polish (For corrosion resistance.), the more stiction/suction can form between the blade and ingredient. Nitrogen steels (14C28N, LC200N, etc.) see much less staining in normal use with a coarse finish. Steels like AEB-L and Ginsan/19C27, especially (Which have just barely enough chromium to make them stainless.), patina/rust quite quickly when given coarse finishes. It's also part of what makes garlic, and other things stick to these blades in a crazy annoying way. The polish is part of what makes 'stain-less' steel, 'stainless'. High-polishes also slow patina formation, which can let you get somewhat more attractive patinas from food acids (Hot red meat, onions, peppers, etc.), rather than the ugly/scary brown & orange patinas from less acidic foods, or the red-rust that you get from trapped moisture on some more reactive claddings.Įven stainless, left at low low refinement, can get 'patina' (Or even rust.) in normal use. The higher you polish, the more you can improve the blade's resistance to corrosion up to a point. There's a balance between suction/stiction, and corrosion resistance on blades. Probably would be much better in terms of increasing performance tho. But this is a much tougher, time consuming fix. Alternatively you could mad convex the blade face, reducing the contact patch between food and knife. My apologies for not understanding how mesh pad and grit powder behave, but if you were to finish coarser, I believe stiction would decrease accordingly.Ī bunch of my finishing stones leave the cladding mirrored up, and I find it irritatingly sticky on mushrooms of all things. In my limited work with stones, it’s just beyond 3k, maybe even a good 1k, as prep, and muddled up gently on a soft prefinisher jnat. Maybe consider dropping down to a finisher that gives some texture to the cladding? Not so much scratches but “frosty” as it were, and barely mirror polished at the steepest viewing angle. Kasumi where the cladding is mirror polished tends to suction to wet ingredients, creating resistance especially when the wide bevel is fully in contact with the substrate. There will be some friction issues down low but it looks like you’ve gone pretty high up, mirrored in the picture almost… turning it into a stiction issue it seems. I’d like to find a combination of the two, but have very limited experience with kasumi finishes, so any help or advice would be much appreciated. Prior to the refinishing the blade looked subpar, but performed well, now it looks good but performs subpar. I made photos of the refinishing process, which you can find in the link below and there is a choil shot in there as well, which represents the current condition of the blade:
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